Replacing a Water Heater: How to replace, Learn Do-it-yourself Ideas and Tricks
If your previous water heater didn't supply all the hot water you needed, like if you're always having to take cold showers, you may want to upgrade and get a larger tank. Now, think about the fact that your old tank leaked and if that leak was bad enough, that could be the reason you're always running out of hot water. On the other hand, if you've added some more members of the family, more showers, more dishes, more laundry could all account for needing a bigger tank.
If you're getting a larger tank, you'll probably have to do some cutting to the existing pipes. For example, a 50 gallon tank is a bit taller than a 40 gallon tank. Now, most of what I'm about to do here may not apply if you're using flexible hose that's especially for water heaters. You might not have to do any modifying at all. This particular series of articles is for a standard copper connection.
Another note, in this article you'll see that the source pipes are plenty long. When they were installed, plenty of room was left. If this is not the case in your situation, you may have to go to more extreme measures of retrofitting. In that case, be sure to visit our forum and post a question about how to fix your situation.
Once the new water heater is as close as possible to the existing pipes, you've got two choices here; measure from floor to coupler, and then from floor to pipe and cut appropriately, or; eyeball it. The second method is generally the one I use because you've got a little bit of room for error (1/4" or so). Also, there's a possibility that the pipes themselves can be moved a bit. If you don't trust yourself, measure from the floor. In either case, make sure that your coupler is installed into the water heater. There are two main parts to the coupler. Make sure the half that goes into the water heater is wrapped with Teflon tape and tightened down fairly well when installed into the water heater.
You have to temporarily screw the second half onto the coupler because you should be measuring (or eyeballing) where the copper will actually go to.
Now let's look at cutting the pipe to fit.
If you're getting a larger tank, you'll probably have to do some cutting to the existing pipes. For example, a 50 gallon tank is a bit taller than a 40 gallon tank. Now, most of what I'm about to do here may not apply if you're using flexible hose that's especially for water heaters. You might not have to do any modifying at all. This particular series of articles is for a standard copper connection.
Measuring For The New Tank
The easiest thing for you to do is move the new tank as close into position as possible. Now if you're changing heaters in a tight area, like a mobile home, you're not going to have the liberty of sliding the water heater around (and will probably not have the liberty of getting a larger one either). Hopefully your water heater is in a basement or an easily accessible area.Another note, in this article you'll see that the source pipes are plenty long. When they were installed, plenty of room was left. If this is not the case in your situation, you may have to go to more extreme measures of retrofitting. In that case, be sure to visit our forum and post a question about how to fix your situation.
Once the new water heater is as close as possible to the existing pipes, you've got two choices here; measure from floor to coupler, and then from floor to pipe and cut appropriately, or; eyeball it. The second method is generally the one I use because you've got a little bit of room for error (1/4" or so). Also, there's a possibility that the pipes themselves can be moved a bit. If you don't trust yourself, measure from the floor. In either case, make sure that your coupler is installed into the water heater. There are two main parts to the coupler. Make sure the half that goes into the water heater is wrapped with Teflon tape and tightened down fairly well when installed into the water heater.
You have to temporarily screw the second half onto the coupler because you should be measuring (or eyeballing) where the copper will actually go to.
Now let's look at cutting the pipe to fit.
