Learn Installation of Drip Edge: Ready to Load the Roof with Shingles and Get to Work
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The purpose of the drip edge is to cause any water running down the roof to fall away from the fascia. That water would make the fascia rot. A metal edge is usually used and it is pre-bent, usually galvanized steel or aluminum.
I like to tuck my metal drip edge under the felt at the bottom of the roof, and over the felt along the rake. You'll start at the bottom. I like to have a scrap piece of drip that I can hold on the side to make sure it sticks past the roof just the right amount. Make sure that the return portion of the drip does not touch the fascia. It should maintain a 1/4" gap all along the length of the fascia. This will keep water away from the fascia.
Nail the metal drip about every 18-24" being sure not to drive them in hard. Just snug them. Try not to bend the metal much. Over lap each piece about 5" and do NOT nail them together. When you reach the end, you'll have to cut the last piece to fit, using metal snips.
Let's say that your roof measures 22' from eave to peak. Your drip edge pieces are 10'. So the top piece would be about 5' (it's bent half way over both sides of the roof). With your next piece in place you are 14' 7" down the rake (because of the 5" over lap). You now have 7' 5" of roof to cover, so you'll need a piece that is 7' 10" (for the 5" overlap) PLUS whatever it takes to bring it down to the bottom edge of the existing drip (the one that is installed on the fascia). You can do this two ways. Figure it like we just did and start at the bottom, overlapping each piece as you get higher up the roof. Or start at the top and work your way down. If you use this method, you must remember to slide the lower piece under the higher piece and don't nail the ends.
Once drip edge is installed on every edge, you're ready to load the roof with shingles and get to work!
I like to tuck my metal drip edge under the felt at the bottom of the roof, and over the felt along the rake. You'll start at the bottom. I like to have a scrap piece of drip that I can hold on the side to make sure it sticks past the roof just the right amount. Make sure that the return portion of the drip does not touch the fascia. It should maintain a 1/4" gap all along the length of the fascia. This will keep water away from the fascia.
Nail the metal drip about every 18-24" being sure not to drive them in hard. Just snug them. Try not to bend the metal much. Over lap each piece about 5" and do NOT nail them together. When you reach the end, you'll have to cut the last piece to fit, using metal snips.
Drip on the Rake
Now you're ready to go up the rake. I like to measure the distance from the eave to the peak and figure out how I can have the top piece be evenly divided over the two planes. In other words, I want the top piece to be 'bent' at the peak, not cut, and the two halves will overlap each plane evenly. You have to measure the length, subtract an average 5" overlap for each seam you'll have, and figure how many full pieces, plus the half at the top, and this will tell you what lenght to cut the bottom piece. Yes, this is the way I do it. Here's an example.Let's say that your roof measures 22' from eave to peak. Your drip edge pieces are 10'. So the top piece would be about 5' (it's bent half way over both sides of the roof). With your next piece in place you are 14' 7" down the rake (because of the 5" over lap). You now have 7' 5" of roof to cover, so you'll need a piece that is 7' 10" (for the 5" overlap) PLUS whatever it takes to bring it down to the bottom edge of the existing drip (the one that is installed on the fascia). You can do this two ways. Figure it like we just did and start at the bottom, overlapping each piece as you get higher up the roof. Or start at the top and work your way down. If you use this method, you must remember to slide the lower piece under the higher piece and don't nail the ends.
Once drip edge is installed on every edge, you're ready to load the roof with shingles and get to work!
