Now that you have your starter shingles cut and your starter strip installed, you're ready to start installing shingles. Place a full shingle directly over top of the starter. Make sure it is flush with the starter. Here is where an air roofing nailer is very handy, but you can do it with a hammer if you have to. Stay away at least 1" from the ends of the shingles, and nail about 5 1/2" to 6 3/4" from the bottom of the shingle. This is so you can have a 5" exposure. Consult your shingle packaging to make sure they are designed for a 5" exposure and follow their guidelines.

Starter strip is very important. It prevents water from the butt joints on the first course, from seeping through to the underlayment. Remember, the more layers of protection you have, the better. You can purchase special starter strip, which saves time, but most shingles are cheap enough that you can just use shingles to do the job. Hold the shingle just like it would normally go on the roof. Now spin it around so that the tabs are on top. Get some junk tin snips or use a straight edge and utility knife to cut the tabs off the shingle.

Once you are within 6 feet or so from the ridge, check your marks. Are the last marks on each end, the same distance from the ridge (the peak)?

Chaulking Lines on Tar Paper

Ok, so now you have the roof loaded and are ready to start shingling, right? Well, not exactly. While many roofers do just that, let me offer a suggestion. I say this is a suggestion because you don't have to do it. Lots of people don't do it. But if you want a real nice looking job that you can be proud of, you'll do it. Snap some lines on the roof that you will use as a guide. Here's what you'll need:

• Tape measure that is long enough to measure the rake (peak to eave)
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